Yesterday I picked up a used cap / topper for my 2006 F350 long bed for a crazy good price. It had been stored in the guys front yard laying on the lawn for a year. Surprisingly it was still in very good shape or so it looked from the outside and inside. And it matched the color of my truck perfectly. We picked it up, slid it on, clamped it down and I was off on my way as happy as can be. I got home and sprayed it out because there was a lot of grass and bugs in it. I then wanted to test it to see how water tight it was and well, it wasn't.

It's leaking right at the front seal close to the cab. And then the drivers side window has major leaks around a few of the many small screws that hold the window in place. Any way, I probably clamped and reclamped 10 times and still could not get that front seal to stop leaking. So, I unclamped it and jacked up just one side of it a little bit so I could get a good look at the seal/weather stripping under it and well, it's in bad shape. Really bad shape and probably because of sitting on that lawn for a year.

LSII / LSX Removal and Reinstallation Instructions. Truck Caps & Truck Accessories manufacturer of fiberglass pick-up truck caps, truck canopies, tops, toppers, truck toppers, camper shells, canopies, hard tonneau covers, work caps and truck accessories.

I also checked the leaky window and frame and the whole thing probably moves about a 1/8' in and out in a couple of spots where it's leaking. I tried tightening the screws down but they wouldn't budge and a few are stripped but not where it's leaking So, this leads me to a bunch of questions: 1. My truck comes with the plastic bed rail caps.

Do I need to remove those and then clamp down the cap / topper? The truck has a spray in liner but the left/right bed rails and tail gate all have the plastic caps on them.

And so I'm wondering if the bed rail caps are causing the front of the cap to not seal properly. What weather stripping or seals should I use on the cap? The ones on there now are completely shot so I'll have to strip those off, clean it up and then install new ones. The window; What do I do about this? I figure I'll need to tape the outside of it very well (so it doesn't fall out), then remove all of the small screws inside and see if it has a seal or silicone or something that's rotted.

And then the big question; How can I get the cap up off the truck far enough to be able to remove the plastic bed rails (if I need to) and strip off and install the weather seals all by myself without the use of a cherry picker or a second person? I just need to prop it up about 6' front and back.

And the truck is too tall to fit in the garage to rig up a hoist (I don't have any tree's for a hoist either). However I lift it, it will have to be done from the inside of the bed. You don't need to remove the plastic rail cap's. Have a friend held you, and take it off all together. Kutumb Serial Episode 54. I stood mine on the cab end (obviously, put something down so you don't scratch it) and replaced all the weather stripping. As far as weather stripping, your on your own!

I used cheap stuff from wal mart (The kind you would use on a leaky house door) It failed miserably. You do need thicker stuff for the front, as the plastic rail's on the sides, are a bit higher than the front. You could remove the widow, and put windshield sealer on it, than reinstall.

There is a rubber/foam gasket material made just for this purpose. You can find it at an RV store, sometimes WalMart will have it or a place that sells caps. It's about 2' wide and comes in a roll about 25' long.

Along the bed rails install the gasket 1 layer thick. Along the front of the bed install 3 layers thick.

The idea being to have the front and sides to be even. Depending on how the cap is made, you might need only 2 layers on the front. You might have some small gaps in the front corners, if you do shoot some black silicone in there or a small amount of black roofing caulk. This spot is where most of the water will come in. MisterCMK: Nah, I'm actually moving to the Pacific NorthWet and so the topper will probably only be removed a couple of times a year if that. But, I'm hoping that we'll have a garage large enough there to rig up a nice hoist system. Dualwheels66: I found a roll of that stuff at Home Depot that's specifically for camper shells.

It's 1 1/4' wide, 3/16' thick and 30' long. But, darn it, I didn't even think about doubling it up and so I may have to make another run there to get some more. Army RET: Yeah, ashamedly I did do a direct hosing. But then I thought maybe it was to much pressure and tried to simulate a rain storm by firing the hose straight up to let the water fail straight down and it still leaked but even in more spots. I wish I could find the type of weather stripping stuff that was used on my old '97 Dodge Dakota bed cap. I bought that truck (about 5 years ago) with a 'Stockland Company' bed cap already on it and when I took it off it had a serious rubber gasket all around the bottom of it.

That thing was definitely water tight. It never leaked a drop. And man was it heavy. Yeah, I'm also not a fan of those caps with the front boots.

I mean if I had dogs that like to go from cab to bed to cab then I might go with one but like you said, it's going to rub the paint off just because the bed and cab move separately. One another note, I did get the cap up in the air on some 4x4's and 2x4's and then scraped all of the old foam rubber tape off. Man did it stink. I then laid down the new stuff and clamped it back on.

But, I didn't water test it because I had just washed it and the water out here is really really hard. However, it is supposed to rain on Thursday and Friday so that will be a really good test. I suspect it will still leak but I'm hoping for the best. As for the window, I'll have to do that this coming weekend.

Yeah, I'm also not a fan of those caps with the front boots. I mean if I had dogs that like to go from cab to bed to cab then I might go with one but like you said, it's going to rub the paint off just because the bed and cab move separately. Here's another viewpoint. I opted for ARE caps with front boots instead of windows on two of my earlier F250s. Didn't want the cap to have its own glass window because the reflection/dirt/etc can make it more difficult to see through the rear view mirror (i.e., you then have 2 glass windows in close proximity to each other). Any rain water would run between the rubber boot and the outside of the cab's rear window, dropping harmlessly under the truck, never inside the bed. Chose to go with a BakFlip F1 solid folding tonneau instead of a cap on the newest F250.

There is a rubber/foam gasket material made just for this purpose. You can find it at an RV store, sometimes WalMart will have it or a place that sells caps. It's about 2' wide and comes in a roll about 25' long. Along the bed rails install the gasket 1 layer thick. Along the front of the bed install 3 layers thick.

The idea being to have the front and sides to be even. Depending on how the cap is made, you might need only 2 layers on the front. You might have some small gaps in the front corners, if you do shoot some black silicone in there or a small amount of black roofing caulk. This spot is where most of the water will come in. This the stuff is a bit pricey but lasts years and you can seal up any leaks that remain with a ood dose of silicone. Never hurts to put a small bead around the window frames as well clear for that and a little will do.

When it's dark outside, have someone on the outside shine a flashlight around the gasket material while you are inside the cap looking for light. Then silicone the corners just for the heck of it. This makes chasing a leak much easier but it can be hard to aply a clean bead of calk in the dark you can mark the areas you need to calk with painters tape in the dark and hit them in the daylight for a cleaner finish just my 02 but i alway s try to get the boot type shell so the dogs can use the bed and still come up front when they want to. The big issue I am having with my boot is the third brake light. The shell i had done at a shop took the light out and used the protective tape over the hole.

Never leaked in 15 years of owning that truck but i was hoping to find a flat led type light for the location. Which was what i turned to the forums for thanks for the read and if anyone knows of a good low profile led light for the back of the cab let e know.

Page 1 of 2 1 Related Topics Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post Texmudder 2017+ Super Duty 27 06:06 PM Scott Clearman Bed Covers, Tonneau covers, Toppers/Canopies & Bed liners 0 05:31 PM Chevmn56 1999 - 2003 7.3L Power Stroke Diesel 2 10:23 PM madpogue Bed Covers, Tonneau covers, Toppers/Canopies & Bed liners 2 05:27 PM Legal Dealer 1987 - 1996 F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks 12 03:22 AM • >• • Stupid question about truck caps and installation.

A truck canopy is an easy addition to any truck and it not only makes it more practical but it also makes it look much better. A truck cap is a special type of truck canopy which will turn the space at the back of your pickup into usable space. When you are fitting truck canopies it is important to spend time making sure that you choose the right one for your truck. Although many of these are designed to fit multiple trucks it's important to ensure that it will fit your truck properly.

If your truck canopy has lights fitted then this will involve drilling into your trucks body and doing some basic wiring. Step 1 - Preparation Put a blanket onto the ground so that you have a soft surface to put the truck canopy without scratching or damaging it. Position the truck canopy so that it is lying on its roof and fully protected. You might need an extra pair of hands to help you turn the canopy over.

Step 2 - Adhesive Adhesive weatherproofing now needs to be applied all the way around the body of your truck. Spend time carefully sticking this down so that there aren't any bubbles or weak areas of weatherproofing. When joining the weatherproofing you should keep it as close together as possible to prevent the danger of leaks. Once you have applied the adhesive weatherproofing you should then open the tailgate of your pickup so that you can finish installing the rest of the canopy.

Step 3 - Putting the Canopy on Ask your willing assistant to help turn your truck canopy back over so that it can be placed on the truck the right way up. When placing the canopy on the roof you need to be very careful that you don't accidentally trap your fingers under the canopy. Khud Ko Tere 1920 Video Song Download.

If you trap your fingers then this can be very painful. Make sure that the truck canopy fits properly on the top of your truck. If it doesn't fit properly then it probably won't be watertight. Step 4 - Clamping the Canopy Get inside the back of the pickup truck and look at the joint between the pickup truck and the canopy.

Use the hardware clamps which came with the canopy to secure the canopy down to the truck. This should push into the weatherproofing to ensure that there's a good bond.

Step 5 - Checking the Canopy Close the back of your truck to ensure that everything still lines up properly. If there are any problems with anything lining up then this will require some adjustments.

When canopy is aligned properly then there really shouldn't be any issue and everything should shut properly. Step 6 - Tightening the Clamps The clamps should then be tightened up evenly so that all four clamps are securely holding the canopy in place and that they won't move. Step 7 - Wiring the Lights If your truck canopy has lights fitted in it then you should use the drill to drill a small hole through the body of the truck. Thread the wires through and connect them up to the brake light wires.